Tension

As we said in previous posts, tension is running high in this area. We heard some of this at the Latvian 100 year independence celebrations and here is the official announcement of the UK's involvement via the Independent:

The Independent today

On Our Own

What will we do now?

OK, we've had a think; think we'll stay 'till 30/06 (Sunday) while exploring the area. Then we'll  head into Poland - have some ideas about where.

Wednesday
We explore the beach.....

Thursday
We head back into Latvia, some 70km, to explore the coastal town/port of Liepãja. We find a fascinating place with a young population with a surprising number of young mums. We heard earlier about the social pressure to marry early and have children.
We find a really nice restaurant that provides a high quality 'business lunch' set menu for less than we paid for bratwurst and coke in Lithuania....

Wonderful white sand

 A lone woman looks out to sea, waiting for her husband/lover/son. A memorial to those lost at sea, including the crew of an American navy 'plane.

Contrast: Orthodox Church and some poorer housing stock..

Navy ships...

Amazingly, we turn up on the 100 year independence day celebrations (OK, forgetting about Hitler and the Soviet annexe). We hear the British, American and French ambassadors speaking... There's even a Scottish military pipe band. It helps to reassure this young country, I guess; there is real concern, even fear, about Russian intentions in the Baltic countries. It's easy for us Island inhabiting British to feel complacent but it's only been around 30 years since these countries were under forced Communist rule; it's a credit to their respective governments that so much progress has been made....

So, a very good day indeed and we're so very glad that we said farewell to Latvia by visiting this less 'touristy' town. We found the locals really helpful, with a pride in their town.
Back at our Lithuanian camp we listen to the women's world cup match against Norway.....

Friday

A trip in the Treg on the Neringa Peninsula as far as Nida, near the Russian border.

(This is the border with their territory between Lithuania and Poland - thus giving them an accessible port that doesn't freeze in the winter)

We cross to the peninsula with a quick ferry ride

Wooden houses of Niva

Stylish clever sundial on the 50m Parnidzio Dune

The Hill of Witches at Juodkranté

  This cormarant colony has killed off the trees in which they nest; it's their acidic droppings apparently. How is that helpful to them on an evolutionary scale.. Mmm? Answers please..

Nida harbour

Adventures finished here. Now where are we off to on Sunday?

Klaipeda - Last Group Camp

Sadness: the end of the tour looms, but we're also ready for a rest - and looking forward, refreshed, to adventures under our own steam.

We end up making a late start at around 10.30am after our  camp frivolities last night. We stop at Plateliai, a small town, on route to see what is claimed to be the largest Ash tree in the Baltic Countries.

Typical Parking Visit

Lithuanian Bog

We also climb the nearby observation  tower.

Arriving at camp we choose a serviced pitch because we're planning on staying here for a few days to a) unwind b) explore some interesting places in the area.

But first, we have our last guided tour tomorrow and, of course, our farewell meal.

So... (Day 2)

We have a guided tour of the resort town, Palanga, with its nearby amber museum, followed by Klaipeda, near to our camp. Klaipeda is a port town but quite a nice one. We have our last official 'free time' before meeting at a local restaurant for our farewell meal.

Here resides the amber museum

 and here it is..

 Palanga pier

The sailing ship/restaurant in Kleipeda..

 Our VERY LAST explanation from a guide; what will we do now?

Rather nice it is, here ..

Back at camp, Sabine, our leader and owner of Mia Tours, to whom this tour is franchised by the Camping and Caravanning Club, provides vodka and a nice round-up speech. We respond in kind through one of our group. After more vodka, it's hugs and kisses; it's over.

It's always a sad and reflective time; this has been a great travelling group to be in, though, with so much positivity. Great memories.

Lithuania Revisited

Another day, another country....

We set off from our campsite in Riga, heading for a lakeside campsite in Lithuania - slightly off the beaten track.

We sail out of the city (oh bliss!) while most of our group are breathalysed by the Latvian police. I begin to understand why pedestrians here will stand facing a red pedestrian light without moving when the is absolutely no traffic in sight...

... Anyway, we make stop at the Hill of Crosses, a sacred place where crosses were first placed in 1831. It became a symbol of resistance and faith in the Soviet era; all crosses were destroyed by the Communists but, each night, more crosses would appear, despite the danger of persecution and even death, should the perpetrators be caught.

Before reaching camp we all meet up for a guided tour of an ex Soviet missile base, now turned into a cold war museum. Getting there involves lots of dust and a washboard road for a few km but how fascinating it is when we eventually get there; the small number of operatives and technicians here were responsible for a collection of intercontinental ballistic missiles - and we see the site remains, including a missile silo. Sapiens eh?

Above ground..

 Missile Silo...

We arrive at camp, dusty and tired but excitement awaits! Sabine has organised a shashlik barbeque with lots of food and a roaring wood fire. This is the weekend of the longest day celebrations in Lithuania and the lakeside campsite has a real buzz to it, with lots of young people. We, the silver surfers, add to the atmosphere by eating and drinking around the campfire while cranking up the oldies via Spotify and our Bose Bluetooth speaker. We head to the lakeside to watch the sunset at some ungodly hour then, eventually, drift off to bed. A wonderful night indeed.

Be careful with that axe!

Image is included on the basis that our lunatic friends are unrecognisable...

Time for bed, at last

Last stop tomorrow - Kleipeda, all being well. Join us there.

Back to Latvia: Riga!

We have around five hours driving today but, before we leave the Estonian island, we head off to see five ancient windmills on the way to Leisi, also stopping at the 14th Century Karja Church, unfortunately too early to see the interior. Well worth the trip, though.
Windmills.....

 14th Century Church....

 Church Stop

We trundle on, take the ferry to the mainland (again, luckily arriving at the last minute) and, after a couple of hours, stop at the Estonian seeside town of Pärnu; very nice it is, too, although the majority of the cars seem to be Finnish. We have a cool ice coffee (well it would be) and a tasty snack, linger some more, then head off to our destination, Riga.
Pärnu Cool

 Pärnu Hot

We head off for the border with Latvia with heavy hearts; Estonia has an indefinable something that we're sad to leave and, of course, we'll probably will never be here again.  Farewell Estonia, hello again Latvia.

After another two and a half hour or so we hit the Riga rush hour traffic, narrow lanes, trolleybuses and other exciting stuff as we make our way to the city centre camp.
Pitch, shower, group meal in the leisure centre then it's time for bed... wait! Have to do the blog.

City tomorrow.

Day 2

We spend a long day in this enticing city. There is massive restoration work still taking place as the historic buildings are restored to former glory. Many interiors become highly expensive modern apartments, mostly owned by foreigners.

As much as we enjoy our day in Riga, it's clear that Latvia has gone about organising the newly independent country (50 years ish) along different lines to neighbouring Estonia. Fiercely proud of it's new status, there is an underlying worry about Russian intentions. It's interesting to discuss social attitudes in the country, which some may judge as conservative. It's certainly fascinating to see the differences between the Baltic Countries at any rate.

Recent resorations abound

 This is the guy who designed many spectacular facades....

 ...many of which includes faces of his most recent love..

While watching the changing of the guard at this commemorative monument, we were interrupted by a loudly shouting Russian... 'suggesting' (putting it politely) that Russia should take back the country.

What's this wonderful piece of engineering then? Answers please..

The wonderful church St Paul's

 Cityscape from St. Paul's

Ex Zeppelin hangars, now a wonderful market site.

It's the longest day/shortest night celebrations tomorrow... but we will have moved on, so we'll have our own celebration at a Lithuanian farm site, all being well.

We have to get out of the City first... at least it's Sunday...

On an Island: Saaremaa

Were spending two days on Saaremaa, an island off the coast of Estonia.

Of course, when we're on an island.. David Gilmore: On an Island

Here:

We deviated via Haapsalu, a rather nice coastal town known for its spas and handwoven shawls.. but not before 12.00 on Wednesdays, it seems. Still, with our friend Google's help we locate a quirky café that's actually open; it's really nice with good coffee and a gluten free pavlovary type thingy; well, what more is there to be said, other than it's probably a great town when it's open. We visit the church, park and promenade.

Random Haapsalu Swan and Sygnets

 Church

Car from the not too distant past

We reach Virtsu, slot the outfit into the Coop carpark, stock up then catch the ferry to the island of Muhu.

We cross a land bridge to eventually reach our campsite at Kuressaare (I won't mention our interesting eronious detour through the town centre roadworks involving three reverse turns).
Here again tomorrow: another day of rest.

Day 2

We spend the morning in the local hospital sampling Estonia's healthcare system, getting my eye problem sorted. I end up seeing a visiting opthalmologist from Taliinn; all sorted, no major issues. Very impressed by the healthcare, at least from this experience. The European Health Card works wonders here, including accessing my prescription from any pharmacy; clever stuff great systems. on we go!

..So we head to the southern point of the island, where the Nazis were confined by the advancing Russians in WW2.

Back for a group BBQ of local trout, chat and wine... but such events are not for public consumption as is blog policy, so it's  time to sign off.

See you tomorrow in Riga, Latvia?